Torres del Paine - Chile

Together with Anja and Aurélien (from the mountain top), Lionel and I take the bus to Punta Arenas, for a short stopover on our way to Puerto Natales. No time to visit penguins this time unfortunately, a shame because the biggest colony of magellanic penguins is near Punta Arenas. This may seem strange, but I like leaving some things behind unseen. It gives me a reason to return one day. On our way to Chile we see some playful dolphins following our boat, jumping up and performing a whole show for us.

Puerto Natales is a nice little town with the best hostel so far: Tin House. The owner knows everything there is to know about trekking in Torres del Paine.and she helps us prepare our trek for the following days. We decide on the W, and Anja is coming with us the two first days. We are doing the trek from West to East.

On our first day we first take a bus, then a catamaran to Paine Grande where we leave our bags. The trek to the Grey Glacier is 11km each way so we have to walk fast if we want to return before sunset. The landscape is amazing!. Announced by little floating icebergs, the glacier appears in front of our eyes, nestled between hills and trees, flowing down to the lake. Back in our camp we set up the tent, a one-person tent, for two. Anja sleeps in the refugio. If I haven’t felt like a sausage before, this is it. Backpacks, sleeping bags, arms and legs, other body parts all stuffed into this tiny space. We manage to sleep though, so well that Anja has to come and wake us the next day as the alarm didn’t go off.

On day two the landscape changes again. Last year a tourist accidentally burned down half of the national park, and now nature is trying to recuperate. We see many burned down trees, but the grass has already grown back. In Valle del Frances, we get a glimpse at the Torres, as we climb up in the middle of the W. For the next nights we are still in tents, but in rented two-person tents. More comfortable! Day three the landscape is again different, as we leave the burned area to the greener and preserved part of the park. The sun is shining, the water is turquoise and we are motivated. We stay as long as we can in the sun, enjoying the scenery as we rest along the way. Last day. I have dreamt about sunrise over the Torres, red light licking the mountains… Crushed was my dream when we wake up at 5 in the morning to pouring rain. There is no chance we will see anything today. Even when we get up, some hours later, the clouds lay as lids over the valley. Hopefully we will get better weather on our next trek.

photos torres